Cai Dt Nut Bn Half Lie
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:smokin: Changing the tie rod ends on my /94 lumina looks like an easy job.(the rubber boots are gone, and there's no nipple for the ones on it now, so I can't lube this joint!).I got new ones for $25 each, (the ones with nipples were actually cheaper than the ones without!) but there is a small snag, because(1) they seem to be slightly different castings. This means that the thread on the tie-rod itself is no guide for how far to screw the new one back on.So I'm going to measure carefully the exact distance of the center of the ball joint along the tie-rod past the threads and duplicate that. This should keep the alignment the same as it was before at least.(2) My Haynes Repair Manual says: 'tighten the castellated nut to the torque listed in this Chapter's specifications.' (what idiots. It would have been shorter and more accurate to print it right there). Problem is, they don't list the torque for this nut/ press-fit assembly in their list at the chapter head, that I can see.Under Front Suspension, they list in order:Control arm pivot bolts.( variable list based on year and make).52-83 ft-lbsSubframe-to-body bolts.1996 & earlier 103 ft-lbs / post 96.133 ft-lbsLower Balljoint Nut.(variable by yr/make).15-84 ft-lbsStabilizer bar clamp nuts.
35 ft-lbsStabilizer bar link nuts. 17Front hub and wheel beraring assembly bolts./96 earlier 52 ft-lbs.post /96.96 ft-lbs (except olds)Strut mount cover nuts.Strut damper shaft nut.Strut-cartridge nut. 82Strut-to-knuckle bolts.(97 later xpt Olds) 90Driveaxle hub nut.see chapter 8 (! Oh brother)None of these sounds like the tie-rod joint to steering knuckle arm castellated nut.So I don't know what torque to tighten that to. Does anyone have any clue, or any authority that lists the torque for this nut?(3) I apparently need a 'puller' to get the old one out of the joint. Does anyone know what kind of puller, and how to apply it?(4) Can I check the alignment myself?This job doesn't look too bad, except for having to buy/borrow a puller and a torque wrench. Any tips and suggestions?
UPDATE:I found this tidbit on a google search:(1) Take a BFH hammer and hit the spindle on the side where the tie-rod end connects. It will probably take about 3-4 good hits and the tie rod end will drop out (this is a taper fit so if you hit it on the side it will fall out).(2) Now unscrew the tie-rod end from the connector where it joins the drag link. Count the number of turns and put the new one back in the same number of turns. Note: this may be left-handed threads.(3) Reassemble in reverse order, be sure when you tighten the castled nut you do not back it off to make the cotter key fit - always tighten to the next slot.(4) You are only changing toe-in here so if you wanna set toe-in yourself with a tape measure you can instead of paying an alignment shop to do it.(1) Doesn't sound that safe: Is it a really a good idea to hit this item with a hammer?(2) Doesn't sound accurate. Any better way to preserve alignment?(3) Sounds important and useful!(4) Sounds like a money-saver! Anyone know how to measure toe-in?Another page recommended:Use a two-jaw or tie-rod end puller to remove the tie-rod end from the steering knuckle. Start slowly in order to seat the tool properly for good leverage.(6) Use a grease gun to lube the tie-rod ends.
Fill until you start to see grease seep out. Wipe off all excess grease to prevent brake contamination.This also sounded like an important detail!!!I will look for more info, since so much appears to have been left out by most pages.I found a video that shows a similar job on youtubeThese guys seem to have no trouble wacking it off with a hammer. But I have to wonder how good this is for your steering assembly.Here's another video for a truck:(1) They suggest using wire brush to remove any crap first. This makes good sense, preventing any sand or stuff from contaminating joints.(2) They also WARN you not to grease anything until everything is installed! The danger is apparently that grease could get on the tapered press-fit joint, or the idler-arm bolt can't be cranked down either, cause it will just slip and spin around.(3) They prefer a special 'pickle-fork' which easily releases the press-fit tapered bolts and such.In this third video (which has the best music) They note that you may need to use vise-grips to prevent the bolt from rotating in the joint while tightening down the castle-nut.
That was an important helpful hint! They also recommend vise grips on the tie-rod itself to prevent it rotating while you tighten the lock-nut on the shaft.They keep track of how far to screw on the tie-rod end by simply 'just loosening the lock nut on the tie-rod enough to free it'. So the lock-nut itself is used to gauge how far to screw the new one on. (presumably a half-turn to orient the tie-rod end vertically for the joint-hole isn't critical to toe-in).this 'Tie Rod' separator ad gives a clear idea of how 'pickle-fork' style tools are properly used.This video shows a technique of 'cracking' the seal on a Ball-Joint Taper. But he also warns that this should be done carefully (danger of damaging joint and also getting hit in chest with giant spring!).A commentor for this video had this to say:This works by delivering a rapid shock through the connected parts and mild temporary malformation of the round tapered hole. As I mentioned heating the outer forging nice and hot then a quick double tap as shown will work better and helps if rust is an issue - just use care before you do this so your friends dont call you springy from being it in the chest with a coil spring.Heating the outer part of the joint will also do this without heating the taper shaft of the ball joint as it will expand the outer metal and doesnt result is possible cracks to the forging the taper sits in. Even if there's rust the expansion of the outer metal wil break the bond.
Remember to keep the nut on the end of the threads when you remove a ball joint the lower control arm is supported by a jack or jackstand especially if there's a coil spring between the frame and lower arm.at least one video recommended having someone hold the steering wheel to prevent drifting of parts, and also the use of a prybar to hold things from sliding and drifting. I found this explanation of how to loosen troublesome nuts:The Tie Rod End:The end connects to the strut with a conical 'rod' locked with a nut, and the tie rod screws into the end and also has a locking nut.Either one of these nuts can be difficult to remove -so here's how.(1) Using the 22mm (I think) spanner, release the locking nut on the tie rod (the one that locks the rod to the end).This may be quite difficult, but since the end is still bolted to the strut, it will not turn so this is easier. Sometimes the tie rod turns with the nut, in which case:Use plenty of WD40 (probably a good idea anyway)Use the wire brush to clean the threads (probably a good idea anyway)Use the locking pliers to hold the tie rod, and release the nut(2) Using a socket, release the nut that locks the ball joint to the strut. You can expect this nut to be quite stuck as well. If you let the steering rack move to full lock, you'll have something to push against. Remove this nut completely.The ball joint must now be removed from the strut.
And, it will probably be stuck as well. So, just use the bottle jack to hold the strut - put it under the bits that the ball joint is in, as close as possible to the ball joint, and lift it a bit - just enough for the jack to take the weight.
Cai Dat Nut Bn Half Lie Full
Then hit the stud on the ball joint - sooner or later, it will pop out.When you have the ball joint free, remove it from the tie rod, and count the number of turns. Then, put on the new one, with the same number of turns. This will set the tracking close enough so you can drive the car to the garage for accurate tracking - it's.not.
Cai Dat Nut Bn Half Lie 2
good enough to keep.Put the ball joint in the strut, and tighten the locking nut. The ball joint may turn in it's hole, so use the locking pliers to apply a.bit. of pressure to it while you tighten. Once it 'catches' it's usually OK.Tighten the tie rod locking nut - this time, use two spanners, one on the nut and one on the tie rod end. The easier method is only good for a ball joint you're about to throw away.My Notes: Liquid Wrench apparently works far better than WD40.The locking pliers (vise-grips) are placed so that they lean against some part of the frame to prevent them turning.Notice that the 'tie rod end' is also a ball-joint, although the actual 'ball joints' (upper and lower) are entirely different joints, which hold the wheel on, and are not part of the steering. This is just a terminology cafuffle.This guy seems to be suggesting using the jack holding up the front end to assist in freeing the tapered bolt. I am not sure how good this idea is.
I am betting on the fork tool being the best approach. Okay I've located this info:Honda Civic: The torque specification for the tie rod end is 32 ft.
Lbs.Here seems to be the most accurate spec for general case.Thread on the castellated nut and torque to 35-45 lb-ft. If the hole on the bolt and the notches in the nut do not line up tighten the nut so that one does. DO NOT LOOSEN TO MAKE THE HOLES LINE UP. Install cotter pin and bend so that it does not fall out.If you are not setting the toe yourself tighten the lock nut and torque to 35-46 lb-ft.I think I'm going to go with 35-40 ft-lb.
Update on Tie Rod Ends:Here is my solution to some of the obviously inaccurate and vulnerable to error suggestions regarding replacing your tie rod ends:The method I used will work providing one factor is true. That your front wheels are at least adequately aligned already, before you start.
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There are 3 tough problems with the tie rod end swap, and they're all to do with cracking the rusty nuts etc.(1) The Tie Rod Locknut. I show in the following photos how I did this for the drivers side.Here you want to prevent BOTH the tie ROD and the tie rod END from turning, while you loosen the locknut. I secured the tie rod with vise-grips (locking pliers) and the tie rod end with a very large adjustable wrench (see pic):I had extra room here for the visegrips because we didn't replace the plastic mud guard after doing a brakeline on this side.I love these giant adjustable wrenches.
Cai Dat Nut Bn Half Lie Video
Although they cost $25 they replace about 30 large spanners and can be adjusted exactly to any nut, metric or British, saving me hundreds of dollars (nobody has a cheap set of large wrenches: individual ones cost about $20 each!)For the locknut I used the one size smaller (no room for the big one).It took about 8 bangs with a hammer to free this nut.(2) The Tie Rod End Castle Nut. This is a problem because (in my case at least) the codder-pin was too badly rusted to grip and bend and easily remove. I solved this by bending and snapping off as much as I could with needle-nose pliers, and crushing the rest while using a LARGE ratchet (Johnson bar) to unscrew the nut. The socket is 18mm (19mm can damage bolt, making it harder).Once the Johnson bar loosened the nut (and crushed off the codderpin) I switched to a medium (1/2') ratchet to get the nut the rest of the way.
To put the new one on, I used the cheap ($20) Torque socket bar from CanTire. (3) The actual tapered balljoint shaft / seat.This is where I met my waterloo.On the driver's side it was no problem. The $15 'tie rod end' tool (pickle fork) got the tapered shaft popped out in less than ten taps.Before unscrewing the old tie rod end, I butted up the locknut to it again, just to ballpark that, then unscrewed it.The new one went on, and I kept the orientation of the tie rod vertical (using my line along the top) and got the tapered shaft pointing down.
It was very close, but I measured the centered nipple - to - line on tie rod (9') to be sure. Does anyone know if either of these other tools could remove or help remove the taper shaft on the tie rod end?update:the 'Tie rod end/ pitmann puller' can't fit on the wheel mount, so it can't press out the tie rod end on a lumina.As you may have noticed, the 'pickle fork' balljoint removal tool broke.